A Sense of the Sixties; Collaborating with SIBLING at London Collections: Men

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Its not every day that the worlds of high fashion and bespoke tailoring combine; often, the bespoke community can be a little reticent when it comes to pushing fashionable boundaries.

This is not the case at Edward Sexton; Edward opened Nutter’s of Savile Row in an era when the worlds of fashion and tailoring were inextricably interlinked – the peacock revolution of the late 60s meant that for the first time, young, dynamic and successful men wanted bold, statement suits to paint the town in – Edward and Tommy Nutter made that happen. With this heritage behind us, today the house embraces the opportunity to prove that bespoke tailoring can not only be effortlessly stylish, but progressive too. As a result, when we were asked by ultra-fashionable designer brand SIBLING to cut some suits for their LC:M catwalk show, we couldn’t help but jump at the chance.

SIBLING’s vibrant and irreverent SS16 collection screams colour and energy – with confident outfits cut in revealing shapes, inspired by the social optimism and new freedoms of the sixties. This British influence is coupled with American influenced sportswear silhouettes – the sixties also being a golden era for the modern American sports scene. Convinced that no homage to the era would be complete without some swinging mod-suiting, the design team at SIBLING asked us to cut them two sharp mod-suits with which to open their show, knowing full-well that Edward Sexton understands 1960s style better than any other tailor alive today.

Archive Images of Edward Sexton wearing Mod suits in the 1960s

Images from the SIBLING show

Revisiting the mod look, glossy blue and cool moss green summer mohair cloths from William Halstead were cut into unusually lose, boxy jackets, finished with slim lapels, nipped pocket flaps and short five inch rear vents – accurately representing the mod-look and lending these suits plenty of attitude. Signature Sexton strong roped shoulders combined with the jackets’ boxy proportions to lend each ensemble a real sense of drama on the catwalk. SIBLING’s influences included some subtle knitwear piping along the lapels, bold printed silk linings and extra panelling on the shoulder reflecting the shoulder pads used in American football. Complemented by slim, flat-fronted trousers, skinny ties and bright socks, these suits perfectly evoked the modern, clean and tongue-in-cheek approach to tailoring practiced by the rebellious youth of the 1960s, capturing some brash American ’60s optimism in the process. Says the New York Times: They were greeted with audible gasps. And then, inevitably, innumerable iPhone photos. Which is, at fashion week, as sure a sign of success as any. It was an exciting opportunity for Edward to revisit the decade which made him as a young, talented tailor and for the house as a whole to try something different.

The Woolmark Company also collaborated with SIBLING, and generously took the time to interview Edward and produce a short film exploring the inspiration behind our SIBLING suits. The film is available to view bellow.

Edward Sexton at London Collections: Men SS16

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Another LC:M has come and gone in a flurry of catwalks, canapés and sophisticated conversation. Although commonly associated with the rather outré realm of high-fashion, the world of fine tailoring also has a significant presence at London Collections, representing British bespoke at its finest, and this season we at Edward Sexton were fortunate enough to be involved in a number of exclusive projects, including a unique collaboration with a rather original designer fashion brand and the ever-impressive showcase of the Savile Row Bespoke Association.

 

Even so, before work began, there was a little fun to be had. The Rake magazine’s celebration at Claridge’s always opens LC:M on the evening before the catwalks kick-off and celebrates the creativity of the British fashion scene, bringing the magazine’s favourite artisans and designers together to celebrate the continued renaissance of luxury style and craftsmanship that is currently gathering pace. As such, the soirée provides a rare opportunity to catch-up with colleagues and fellow craftsmen en masse, share a glass or two of champagne and generally get into the fashionable swing of things. Edward and Dominic attended the party, having cut a lightweight checked three piece suit for The Rake’s Founder & Editor-in-Chief Wei Koh, which he wore on the evening.

 

A thoroughly glamorous evening, as one expects of The Rake, notable guests included Savile Row Bespoke Chairman Pierre Lagrange, the creative team from Gieves & Hawkes, Parisian tailors Cifonelli and Camps de Luca as well as menswear journalist Simon Crompton, for whom we also recently cut one of our signature double-breasted grey merino flannel suits. You can read his thoughts on the project here (Permanent Style) . Sexton also collaborated with Permanent Style and The Rake magazine at an exclusive bespoke tailoring symposium which took place at Pitti Uomo in Florence the week after, more on that is to come. Edward also ran into former protégé Davide Taub at The Rake’s party, who worked at Edward Sexton for two years between 2008-2010. Now the talented Head Cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, the architectural quality and sharp lines of Davide’s work are extremely impressive and not dissimilar from our own.

With festivities concluded, the first of the events we were involved in took place, namely the Savile Row Bespoke Association showcase – ‘Savile Row Inside Out’ an an artful exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts, put on in partnership with The Woolmark Company. Savile Row Bespoke is an organisation of which Edward Sexton is proud to be a member, founded to protect Savile Row’s unique identity and promote the bespoke community’s superior craft and working practices.

 

To this end, tailors were given individual plinths on which to display basted and finished garments, emphasising the remarkable and lengthy transformation a bespoke suit makes from its conception to completion. Displaying partially finished garments also gave attendees the opportunity to explore how different tailors treat and construct their canvasses and coat internals. We supplied both a basted and finished double-breasted charcoal flannel coat for the display, styled by us with one of our signature raw silk reppe stripe ties and a crisp white Edward Sexton tab-collar shirt. Menswear Stylist and long-time customer Tom Stubbs visited the exhibition wearing a soft brown double-breasted chalkstripe suit cut by Edward Sexton, naturally. The exhibition was a pleasure to take part in and thanks must go to both Savile Row Bespoke and Woolmark for organising it.

We had one more collaboration still to come with Woolmark over the course of London Collections: Men, one which was rather more fashion focused, but it rather warrants an entry all of its own… stay tuned.

The First Commission

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By Aleksandar Cvetkovic

An Edward Sexton suit is iconic, everyone knows this – so even for a passionate and committed bespoke tailoring enthusiast, who’s had clothes made by a number of tailors – it takes some courage to book an appointment and walk through the doors of the Sexton studio for the first time.

This is no bad thing, a touch of anticipation acts as a reminder that the house’s work is truly special – and worth caring about as a customer. I distinctly remember the process of commissioning my first suit, principally because the process that Edward Sexton gently guides all its customers through feels fundamentally more caring and reassuring than any other bespoke process I’ve experienced. Under the watchful eye of Edward and Dominic, the house’s workshop is filled with highly talented craftsmen, offering customers the opportunity to actually meet with the artisans producing Sexton’s clothes and watch the clothes being made in front of their very eyes.

I remember stepping into the workroom and being greeted with an overwhelming sense of industriousness. The house’s tailors were lining the workshop’s long oaken benches, sitting on the worktops (traditionally Savile Row tailors are not allowed to sit on chairs when at work) and cutting, stitching, basting, easing, finishing or pressing a wealth of different and equally beautiful garments at different stages of the construction process. The sense of both enjoyment and concentration is infectious and one can’t help but get the sense that this comes from Edward himself – all the tailors at Edward Sexton take an exceptional pride in what they do, and Edward’s focus when fitting customers seems to dictate the focus of the entire workshop.

Indeed, meeting Edward for the first time was a truly surreal experience; he is every bit as cool in the flesh as his reputation suggests. A small, slight man in a punchy suit with a shock of silver hair, he bears an irrepressible twinkle in his eye, a husky voice and a serious charisma about him. This charisma seems to bleed into the walls of the studio itself – you can sense an atmosphere of retro coolness as soon as you enter. What follows is a welcoming “hello son, how you doing?” and a surprisingly firm shake of the hand with the cool eyes already whizzing over the shoulders and lines of my suit – sizing me up in the way that a master tailor will. With Edward working alongside his coat makers in the studio’s workrooms next door, Dominic handles the appointment. Charming, polished and genteel, he’s the perfect foil to Edward’s focus, and every part the expert.

It is Dominic’s advice that guides each and every Sexton client through the ‘design consultation’ – a unique service offered only by Edward Sexton – whereby the house takes time to “get to understand” the customer; his lifestyle, preferences and most importantly the precise vision that the customer has for his clothes. In this way, the house almost becomes a couturier or design consultancy, advising gently on style, cut, proportions and cloth choices to ensure that the garment is appropriate for purpose and makes for a wise investment. This part of the service also ensures that the iconic standard and aesthetic of Edward Sexton’s work is retained – nothing is allowed to leave the workroom if Edward and Dominic don’t feel its right.

The suit that came about as a result of this initial commission is a beautiful charcoal merino flannel three piece, of very superior quality. The sensation of wearing something that you know has been built around you and designed for you – to the very highest standard that bespoke tailoring allows – is exquisite. I love this suit, it feels sophisticated, impressive and wonderfully form fitting. With the finishing of this first commission, I can attest personally to the unique nature of working with Edward Sexton, and the satisfaction that can be gained from working with a tailor that combines an effortless technical mastery with the desire to create clothes that exceed even the fussiest customer’s requirements.

Edward-Sexton-material-selection

Making the Right Choices

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When a new client books their first appointment with Edward Sexton, we appreciate that it can be a daunting, or at the very least unknown experience. The world of bespoke tailoring and couture design is complex and commissioning bespoke clothes involves a wealth of different choices relating to cloth, colour, pattern, cut, style and shape.

Quality of design and an uncompromising service are ideals central to Edward Sexton. We like to ensure that customers make the right choices, and at the start of the Sexton process we take time to listen to every customer and determine exactly what it is that appeals to their sense of style, their lifestyle, social necessities and the requirements for their clothes – we call it our Design Consultation.

This consultation ensures that the customer is listened to, and that we can share ideas and design-suggestions – using our considerable experience in bespoke and couture design to produce designs that not only fulfil the customer’s initial request, but which also perform well functionally and make for elegant, trouble-free and satisfying clothes to wear.

Edward-Sexton-Bespoke-05.
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Irish Donegal Business suits will require a fundamentally different cut, cloth and tone to lounge suits or garments designed for formal wear or evening dress. A business suit must be durable; it is worn day-in, day-out. It must bear an element of professional understatement; cut in a classic, yet hardwearing worsted, or with a traditionally sartorial chalkstripe to add a touch of authority. Lounge suiting can be more luxurious, cut in rich flannels or glossy, delicate worsteds and the styling details can afford to make a little more of a statement. Weekend jackets can be softer and at their
best feel easy-to-wear. Some cloths will be better suited to travelling than others and some will perform well in certain temperatures, seasons or particular environments. Understanding these differences and working with a customer to make the right design decisions is of paramount importance to Edward Sexton.

This level of expert knowledge, combined with a measured, design-driven process to creating all our clothes ensures that customers approaching us for new garments (whether it be the first or fifteenth time to visit), can come to a tailoring house that truly takes pride in understanding its customers, and crafts clothes for customers that they can trust-in.

american-psycho book cover

Bret Easton Ellis’s American Psycho

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american-psycho book cover

Bret Easton Ellis’s American Psycho was savaged by critics when it first came out back in 1991 but has gone on to be a modern classic unique in its style. The book is both dark and sinister with a twist of psychotic comedy that engroses the main character Patrick Bateman.
The lead character is both slick and stylish and is said to have suits made by Edward Sexton in the book. With an obsession to seek perfection in all areas of life, Patrick even has an uncomfortable obsession with needing better business cards than everyone around him. A true psycho and a rather unconventional mention for Edward Sexton.

Earlier in the evening I was having dinner with Jeanette at a
new Northern Italian restaurant near Central Park on the Upper East
Side that was very expensive. Earlier in the evening I was wearing a
suit tailored by Edward Sexton and thinking sadly about my family’s
house in Newport. Earlier in the night after dropping Jeanette off I
stopped at M.K. for a fund-raiser that had something to do with Dan
Quayle, who even I don’t like.

Lion adorning blazer stripe tie

The Lion

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Lions are truly noble creatures. For centuries they have been associated with royalty, heralded as symbols of honour and pride, stamped as marks of distinction upon products of great quality, and have stood guard over the rare and the precious.

Now, the lion proudly adorns our blazer stripe ties, and can sit upon the lapels of the finest Edward Sexton suits, an enduring testimony to their quality. See our Lapel pins.

Romancing

Thoughts

Tailoring

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