Its not every day that the worlds of high fashion and bespoke tailoring combine; often, the bespoke community can be a little reticent when it comes to pushing fashionable boundaries.
This is not the case at Edward Sexton; Edward opened Nutter’s of Savile Row in an era when the worlds of fashion and tailoring were inextricably interlinked – the peacock revolution of the late 60s meant that for the first time, young, dynamic and successful men wanted bold, statement suits to paint the town in – Edward and Tommy Nutter made that happen. With this heritage behind us, today the house embraces the opportunity to prove that bespoke tailoring can not only be effortlessly stylish, but progressive too. As a result, when we were asked by ultra-fashionable designer brand SIBLING to cut some suits for their LC:M catwalk show, we couldn’t help but jump at the chance.
SIBLING’s vibrant and irreverent SS16 collection screams colour and energy – with confident outfits cut in revealing shapes, inspired by the social optimism and new freedoms of the sixties. This British influence is coupled with American influenced sportswear silhouettes – the sixties also being a golden era for the modern American sports scene. Convinced that no homage to the era would be complete without some swinging mod-suiting, the design team at SIBLING asked us to cut them two sharp mod-suits with which to open their show, knowing full-well that Edward Sexton understands 1960s style better than any other tailor alive today.
Revisiting the mod look, glossy blue and cool moss green summer mohair cloths from William Halstead were cut into unusually lose, boxy jackets, finished with slim lapels, nipped pocket flaps and short five inch rear vents – accurately representing the mod-look and lending these suits plenty of attitude. Signature Sexton strong roped shoulders combined with the jackets’ boxy proportions to lend each ensemble a real sense of drama on the catwalk. SIBLING’s influences included some subtle knitwear piping along the lapels, bold printed silk linings and extra panelling on the shoulder reflecting the shoulder pads used in American football. Complemented by slim, flat-fronted trousers, skinny ties and bright socks, these suits perfectly evoked the modern, clean and tongue-in-cheek approach to tailoring practiced by the rebellious youth of the 1960s, capturing some brash American ’60s optimism in the process. Says the New York Times: They were greeted with audible gasps. And then, inevitably, innumerable iPhone photos. Which is, at fashion week, as sure a sign of success as any. It was an exciting opportunity for Edward to revisit the decade which made him as a young, talented tailor and for the house as a whole to try something different.
The Woolmark Company also collaborated with SIBLING, and generously took the time to interview Edward and produce a short film exploring the inspiration behind our SIBLING suits. The film is available to view bellow.