“Offshore Bespoke is not a compromise; it is a comprehensive fusion of traditional bespoke hand-craftsmanship and cutting-edge tailoring technology” – Dominic Sebag-Montefiore
When Dominic Sebag-Montefiore joined Edward Sexton in 2007, he began work on an accessible alternative to Sexton’s in-house Knightsbridge Bespoke service, but which challenged the limitations of conventional made-to-measure tailoring. Often, made-to-measure is an unsatisfying compromise, whereby a suit is machine-cut and made with only superficial adjustments to a set block pattern.
Dominic determined that this need not be the case. “I see so many made-to-measure suits which display a clear lack of balance, proportion and finesse. These garments do not justify the considerable prices paid for them. In the same breath, many cheap bespoke suits suffer from inferior quality of design and construction, yielding a product that lacks integrity and style. I wanted to create an alternative and introduce a service par excellence – at less than half the price of our in-house Knightsbridge Bespoke – but administered with the understanding of experienced bespoke tailors.”
The result of some five years of research and product development, this service is Sexton’s Offshore Bespoke, an experience which combines a pattern cut in-house by the Sexton studio, with a specialist overseas tailoring workshop, that has worked for years with Dominic and Edward to meet the house’s high standards. The result is the perfect balance between a Sexton-cut pattern and an experienced external workshop.
The process begins with an initial consultation where every client is measured in a fitting garment, which allows for Dominic and Edward to draft a unique pattern in the same fashion as a bespoke suit, assessing the client’s physique against the house’s blocks to make any adjustments required. This allows for the process to achieve a precision of fit and style that rivals that of most bespoke suits, avoiding the design-restrictions of a conventional made-to-measure service. Every suit’s proportions will be drafted by hand in the Sexton workshop; there are no lapel templates or pre-determined limitations.
With the pattern cut, the tailor’s ‘bundle’ goes out to the overseas workshop to be made. Jackets are fully canvassed for an elegant, expressive finish. Lapels are padded for a signature deep Sexton roll, sleeves are properly pitched, buttonholes and topstitching hand-sewn for a bespoke finish. The quality of construction is truly refined.
Four to six weeks later, the suit will be returned to Knightsbridge as an advanced fitting, to allow for further adjustments to be made by Edward’s in-house team of bespoke tailors. The suit will then be passed to Sexton’s finisher, with buttonholes and top-stitching hand-sewn in London, before a final press takes place and the suit is ready for collection.
As Dominic puts it, “the result is a unique tailored garment with all the style and fit of our full-bespoke, and a service which offers the optimal balance between quality and price. We don’t pretend that it’s bespoke, but it is as close as you can get.”