Trousers sit on the hips for an elegant, formal rise and are cut to fit well in the fork to allow plenty of daylight through the legs, thereby creating the illusion of height. Plain fronted trousers look clean and modern, but are not practical if you plan to fill your pockets. Forward pleated trousers look formal with strong architectural lines. Reverse pleated trousers are more subtle and casual. Belts can look stylish, but may busy the clean lines of the suit. An elegant solution to this is the Edward Sexton pistol-shaped side strap, which adds a subtle statement to the tops of trousers and holds the trouser waist in place cleanly under a jacket. Turn-ups can add a touch of panache and once more evoke a sense of Art Deco elegance.
Edward believes that collegiate, repp and military stripe ties are timelessly elegant and suitably understated when paired with a suit or a blazer; fashion should determine the width of stripe; the season the colour. Only wear a striped tie with a striped shirt if it has a white collar and cuffs and the shirt stripe is subtle.
Shirt collars should fit well and stand proud, with contrasting white collars and cuffs adding a touch of visual interest. Pin and tab-collar shirts are quintessentially Sexton and help ties to stand proud from the neck when worn.
Subtle Bengal and fine-striped shirts add some visual texture without being overbearing. Pale and pastel colours are suitably timeless and elegant and can more easily be paired with contrasting or dark ties.
Double cuffs are a must for formalwear and look appropriate under a suit, but are bulky under knitwear; opt for barrel cuffs under a pullover. To achieve a well- balanced look one should show the same amount of shirt collar above the collar of the jacket as one shows shirt cuff below the jacket sleeve.
Shirts should fit cleanly around the shoulder, chest and waist with a slim sleeve, to achieve a sleek, form-fitting look.
In addition to our bespoke shirt making service, we offer customers a capsule collection of ready-to-wear shirts, which feature all the signature attention to detail imbued into our bespoke service. The collection can be viewed on our online shop.
Romancing The Suit
“Every time a woman leaves-off something she looks better, but every time a man leaves-off something he looks worse” – Will Rogers
The notion of romance has a unique significance for Edward Sexton. Not only is our approach to bespoke clothing influenced primarily by a genuine love for the tailor’s art, but Edward’s influences are distinctly romantic and nostalgic; the Sexton aesthetic is has its origins in the understated and masculine gentleman’s dress of the Art Deco era; the 1920s and 30s, as well as in the enduring glamour of the Jazz Age. It was a time of unique experimentation and discovery in bespoke tailoring; where every man wore fine suits and cared meticulously for his appearance. Clothes really did maketh the man, as we believe they continue to do today. Edward not only loves cutting beautiful clothes, but also to dress the customer beautifully; romancing his suits and customers with a delicate balance of stylish accessories, shirting and accoutrements, producing a classical vision of masculinity.
Allow us to demonstrate to you the romance of a Sexton suit.
On Cut and Silhouette
Coats are cut long, with an elegant line through the body; the chest is cut-full and expressed beautifully, the waist elegantly suppressed for a classical hourglass shape and the skirt flares gently over the hips.
The Sexton silhouette is deeply architectural, ideal for creating a dynamic impression in the boardroom or on the red carpet. Shoulders are clearly defined and sleeveheads firmly roped for a powerful aesthetic. We appreciate of course that not every customer lives in the public eye, and this strength of shape can easily be softened for customers in need of something slightly smoother, which still retains that signature sense of elegance.
Lapels sweep over the chest in a long, leafy line. The length of the lapel will be determined by the customer’s physique and personal requirements; a high lapel can create a long, well-built frame and a low lapel builds shape into the chest, contributing to a sense of authentic Art Deco styling.
Single-breasted button-one jackets with broad peak lapels evoke a strong sense of 1930s style. Button-two jackets carry a more understated elegance, but remember never to fasten the bottom button. Button-three jackets offer a sporty look and work well with a centre vent and slanted pockets. Double-breasted jackets add a sense of gravitas, and retain a formal quality. Waistcoats likewise add stature, with clean, deeply pointed single-breasted waistcoat being the most simple and elegant variant. Double-breasted waistcoats are powerful and can add a sense of occasion to a single-breasted suit.
Around the Neck
Fashion may dictate the collar shape of your choice, but not the knot of your tie – the width of your collar, the weight of silk and size of the tie itself determine this. With spread-collars tie a Windsor knot. With a closed collar, tie a four-in-hand so that the knot fills the space between your collar points nicely. Pin and tab-collars ensure that the tie stands proud; resulting in the crispest of looks with the collar hugging the tie knot and accentuating its Art Deco symmetry. Always ensure that there is a dimple just below the knot of the tie, this looks chic and prevents the tie from slipping.
Seasonality is an equally important consideration when choosing a tie. A tie’s colour tone, weight, cloth and number of folds should be adapted from season to season in order for the tie to feel comfortable when worn and look appropriate. This season Edward Sexton is offering a suitably earthy, autumnal capsule collection of exquisite wool, cashmere and silk blend ties which are appropriate for autumn/winter, evoke the colours of the season and which are authentically Sexton in style. These ties can be viewed on our online shop.
On Pocket Hankies
Hankies should complement your tie but never match; they should be made of pure silk or fine quality wool/linen-silk blends. Neatly folded pocket squares look clean and crisp, but for more debonair romance, handkerchiefs can nonchalantly flow from the out-breast pocket.
We offer a collection of beautifully woven and finished pocket hankies with which customers can romance their outfit in an appropriate fashion. These hankies can be viewed on our online shop.
Black can often look rather harsh when put against a tailored trouser; warm brown tones in various shades look softer and suitably elegant. Clean, half-brogue, Oxford monkstrap and wholecut shoes suit the clean lines of Sexton garment.
Socks must be comfortable and soft, allowing for the foot to relax when inside the shoe. Socks are equally an opportunity to add a final dash of colour and character to an elegant tailored ensemble. This season Edward Sexton is offering a selection of exquisitely soft, warming wool and cashmere socks, which can be viewed on our online shop.
When we cut the most beautiful suit that fits impeccably; to bring it to life is essential. The suit should be romanced with accessories, styling details and a tasteful balance of colour, pattern and ornamentation. This interplay can easily become a minefield – so tread carefully. Too much romance is gaudy, but a faint heart never won a fair lady.
We hope that the above suggestions inspire customers to make a perfectly placed whirlwind romance of their own Sexton garments.